If repairs or maintenance items are in need, the seller can then do these, increasing the overall total value of the home, This pre-listing inspection can then be added to the disclosure and will make buyer less apprehensive as an inspection has been done. Buyers should conduct their own inspection to verify findings and that where noted repairs have been completed by the seller.  This in turn removes the 11th hour surprise negotiation or possible suicide from the home.

In keeping things up front the real estate can then make a proper market evaluation if sellers do not wish to make noted repairs, they can then be properly advised and the home will reflect this in it price. This keeps sellers from getting mad at Real estate agents for home reductions while on the market. Buyers can then make informed decision as to whether they want to take on potential noted problem and the price has been marked down already to reflect the quoted cost of repairs, thus removing their 11th hour negotiation ability.

Advantages to the home inspector:

• Seller inspections allow the inspector to catch inspection jobs upstream, ahead of real estate transactions and the competition.
• Seller inspections are easier to schedule and are not under the time constraints of sales agreement’s inspection contingencies.
• Working for sellers is typically less stressful than working for buyers about to make the purchase of their lifetimes. 
• Sellers can alert the inspector to problems that should be included in the report, answer questions about their homes, and provide seller’s disclosure statements.
• Repairs of problems found during seller inspections often necessitate the need for re-inspections by the inspector.
• Seller inspections put a sample copy of the inspector’s product, the report, in the hands of many potential buyers who will need a local inspector soon.
• Seller inspections put a sample copy of the inspector’s product, the report, in the hands of many local buyer’s agents that tour the home.
• The inspector is credited, in part, with the smoothness of the real estate transaction by buyer, seller and agents on both sides.
• The liability of the inspector is reduced by putting more time between the date of the inspection and the move-in date of the buyers.
• The liability of the inspector is reduced because the inspector’s clients are not buying the properties inspected, but rather moving out of them.
• The buyer might insist on hiring the seller’s inspector to produce a fresh report since the seller’s inspector is already familiar with the home.
• Seller inspections provide inspectors opportunities to showoff their services to listing agents.
• Seller inspections provide examples to the listing agent of each home, which might encourage those agents to have other listings pre-inspected by the inspector.
• Most sellers are local buyers and so many sellers hire the inspector again to inspect the homes they are moving to.

Advantages to the seller:

• The seller can choose a certified inspector rather than be at the mercy of the buyer’s choice of inspector.
• The seller can schedule the inspections at the seller’s convenience.
• It might alert the seller of any items of immediate personal concern, such as mold, radon gas (if testing requested) or deficiency.
• The seller can assist the inspector during the inspection, something normally not done during a buyer’s inspection.
• The seller can have the inspector correct any misstatements in the inspection report before it is generated.
• The report can help the seller realistically price the home if problems exist.
• The report can help the seller substantiate a higher asking price if problems don’t exist or have been corrected.
• A seller inspection reveals problems ahead of time which:
  • might make the home show better.
  • gives the seller time to make repairs and shop for competitive contractors.
  • permits the seller to attach repair estimates or paid invoices to the inspection report.
  • removes over-inflated buyer procured estimates from the negotiation table.
• The report might alert the seller to any immediate safety issues found, before agents and visitors tour the home.
• The report provides a third-party, unbiased opinion to offer to potential buyers.
• A seller inspection permits a clean home inspection report to be used as a marketing tool.
• A seller inspection is the ultimate gesture in forthrightness on the part of the seller.
• The report might relieve a prospective buyer’s unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
• A seller inspection lightens negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• The report might encourage the buyer to waive the inspection contingency.
• The deal is less likely to fall apart the way they often do when a buyer’s inspection unexpectedly reveals a problem, last minute.
• The report provides full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

Advantages to the real estate agent:

• Agents can recommend certified inspectors as opposed to being at the mercy of buyer’s choices in inspectors.
• Sellers can schedule the inspections at seller’s convenience with little effort on the part of agents.
• Sellers can assist inspectors during the inspections, something normally not done during buyer’s inspections.
• Sellers can have inspectors correct any misstatements in the reports before they are generated.
• Reports help sellers see their homes through the eyes of a critical, third-party, thus making sellers more realistic about asking price.
• Agents are alerted to any immediate safety issues found, before other agents and potential buyers tour the home.
• Repairs made ahead of time might make homes show better.
• The reports provide third-party, unbiased opinions to offer to potential buyers.
• Clean reports can be used as marketing tools to help sell the homes.
• Reports might relieve prospective buyer’s unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
• Seller inspections eliminate buyer’s remorse that sometimes occurs just after an inspection.
• Seller inspections reduce the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• Seller inspections relieve the agent of having to hurriedly procure repair estimates or schedule repairs.
• The reports might encourage buyers to waive their inspection contingencies.
• Deals are less likely to fall apart the way they often do when buyer’s inspections unexpectedly reveal problems, last minute. 
• Reports provide full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

Advantages to the home buyer:

• The inspection is done already.
• The inspection is paid for by the seller.
• The report provides a more accurate, third-party view of the condition of the home prior to making an offer.
• A seller inspection eliminates surprise defects.
• Problems are corrected or at least acknowledged prior to making an offer on the home.
• A seller inspection reduces the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• The report might assist in acquiring financing.

A seller inspection allows the buyer to sweeten the offer without increasing the offering price by waiving inspections.

The earthquake struck at about 1:41 p.m., It was felt from Quebec  to Toronto.

The epicentre of the earthquake was 45 km north of Gatineau, Que.

Coordinates: 45.955°N, 75.546°W

Depth: 19.2 km

It was felt here in picton as I was working on the computer, the floor was shaking, pictures ratteling and a vibration that had a hollow feeling.

it was eriee while it was happening, I have never felt an earthquake before. I have seen and been real close to a few tornado’s while I was in Texas a few years back but this was different.

Afterwards I did a visual inspection to my home to ensure there was no damage to the foundation, structure and roof and found to be all in good order. My next door neighbour had some pictures fall from the wall but suffered no damage to the house, other then a scare it would seem we all have weathered the quake.

One for the history book stories with the kids at a later point.

On a side note, if your home was in the path and you want to have your home inspected to see if their was damage then for nothing less then peace of mind I suggest you contact a property inspector and have them do a maintenance inspection and or home check up to help inform you on anything they find with the property.

by Nick Gromicko and Rob London 

As the cost of energy rises, resource supplies become precious and the public becomes increasingly aware of environmental dangers associated with the burning of fossil fuels, home energy efficiency has become more than a fringe concern. Homeowners worldwide are currently enhancing their homes’ energy efficiency, although owners of historic homes have met some unique challenges: How do you introduce new architectural elements into an old home without interfering with its original design? As luck would have it, this concern is somewhat balanced by energy-saving qualities already present in many historic homes that reduce the need for alterations. This article details the ways that historic homes are inherently energy-efficient, and offers ways that such assets can be further improved.  

Historic buildings are often more energy-efficient than modern construction. In fact, studies have shown that buildings constructed before 1940 require less energy consumption for heating and cooling than houses built during the subsequent 35 years. Before electricity was available, homes capitalized on natural sources of lighting, heating and ventilation because the house itself – not electric lights and heaters – was all that protected occupants from the elements. Some specific elements of older buildings that contribute to their excellent energy efficiency are as follows:

thick, heat-retaining masonry walls made from stone or brick;

exterior balconies, porches, wide roof overhangs, rooftop ventilators, clerestories, skylights, awnings and shade trees were all used in homes built in warmer climates;

windows often include exterior shutters, interior Venetian blinds, curtains and drapes which make them more energy-efficient than modern windows;

exterior walls were often painted light colors to reflect the hot summer sun, resulting in cooler interior living spaces;

and windows were only installed where they could effectively allow for lighting and ventilation. Modern architecture, by contrast, relies on more windows than are necessary as a stylistic measure, with a reduced R-value as an unfortunate side effect.

Retrofit dangers to avoid in historic buildings:

avoid waterproofing old masonry. Waterproof coatings will trap moisture against the masonry, potentially causing deterioration during the freezing cycle;

damage to or removal of historic architectural elements. Replacing solid, historic materials or components, such as natural wood with substitutes made of plywood or plastics, have short lifespans under certain conditions;

exposing occupants to toxins, such as lead dust and asbestos. Older homes were built before much was known about the health effects of certain chemicals, some of which might become airborne during the retrofit process. Be sure to ask your InterNACHI inspector about concerns during your next inspection;

introducing materials that may damage existing components. Certain cellulose insulations use ammonium or aluminum sulfate as a fire retardant, which may react with moisture in the air to form sulfuric acid and damage metals (including plumbing and wiring), building stones, brick and wood; and

retrofits that violate rules imposed by committees overseeing historic districts. In some areas, even exterior paint color must be approved.

removing historic windows and other components, adding aluminum siding, or installing dropped ceilings in interior spaces.

Retrofits in Historic Buildings

The following retrofits are often used in historic buildings to make them more energy-efficient:

Add insulation to crawlspaces. This feat may be significantly more cumbersome than adding attic insulation because crawlspaces are often excessively moist. If insulation is added to moist areas of the house, care should be taken to ventilate the area, perhaps with the assistance of an exhaust fan.

Add weatherstripping to doors and windows. A common problem in historic buildings is leaky windows and doors, which can be mitigated by caulking open cracks and joints. Be sure to only use appropriate colors that do not interfere with the historic character of the house. Also, do not seal the building so much that moisture cannot escape the building.

Add insulation to the attic. This process is often easier than adding insulation in other areas, such as in walls, and is hugely energy saving. The most common insulation materials include cellulose, mineral wool, fiberglass, and vermiculite.

Add storm windows. Rather than removing historic windows, supplement them with storm windows that reduce thermal transmission and do not affect the historic character of the building. Storm windows can be painted if their colors are inappropriate. Care should be taken during installation to avoid damage to the historic window frames. Storm windows will be effective regardless of whether they are installed on the interior or exterior of the original frame, although this decision will have consequences; interior storm windows may cause the historic windows to become excessively cold, causing moisture to condense, resulting in peeling paint and deteriorated wood. If the storm windows are installed on the exterior, however, they may interfere with the building’s image.

Replace incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent light (CFL) bulbs. This change is a good idea in any home regardless of its age, but it is especially helpful in older homes because it disturbs none of the home’s character.

Replace old appliances. Old buildings often have old appliances, which should be replaced with Energy Star®-rated appliances.

Add a shade tree. A tree can be an effective barrier against the sun during the summer months, and it increases the natural, historic appeal of an old house. A deciduous tree is best because it will lose its leaves in the winter and allow sunlight to enter the house when it is most needed. The tree should be placed at a safe distance from the house to avoid damage to the foundation and falling limbs during a windstorm.

Install storm doors in cold climates, although they are often not cost-effective in warmer climates. Historic doors usually require little alteration, especially if they are solid wood and in good condition, or if they are critical to the historic appearance of the house.

Vestibules are architectural features that reduce heat loss by creating an additional airspace while the exterior door is open. They are often not, however, cost-effective as an add-on due to their high price of installation. Also, they are not likely to mesh with the appearance of historic buildings.

Replace windows. This should be done only when the historic windows are damaged to the point where repair is impractical. The new windows should be selected to match the style of the building. As mentioned earlier, the addition of storm windows is an effective, minimally invasive way to reduce utility costs.

In summary, historic homes possess qualities that make them inherently energy-efficient while simultaneously resistant to retrofits that would enhance energy savings. Homeowners should thus take care while altering their old homes, but also grateful for the hardwired efficiency they have inherited from previous generations.

NACHI Home Inspector

BeSure Home Inspection

With the rising cost of energy cost, here are some easy to do tips to help lower your energy bill.

1. Get a home energy audit every couple of years from a Certified NACHI Home Inspector to find ways to cut costs.

2. Check with your utility company for rebated whenever you install energy-saving equipment.

3. Add more energy-efficient insulation to your attic, perferably with a resistance rating of R-21 to R-30

4. Turn down your home thermostat two degrees and save 24 -kilowatt hours a month. It might not sound like much, but it adds up.

5. Buy a programmable thermostat, especially if your home is vacant most of the day. Set it to turn on a half hour before anyone arrives home.

6. Adjust your thermostat to a comfortable temperature and wait. Turning your thermostat up or down dramatically wasted energy and increases your heating costs.

7. Lower you hot water thermostat 10 degress, but no less than 120 degrees.  You’ll still get all the hot water you need and save 25-kilowatt hours a month.

8. Fix leaky faucets. One drip a second is 20 kilowatts a month. 

9. Invest in weather-stripping kits if you’ve got drafty doors, and windows.

10. Trade your standard incandescent bulbs for compact fluorescent bulbs.  They are more energy-efficent, last for years instead of months, consume little power and generate little heat.

11.Turn off your computer when not in use, or use the energy-saving”sleep”mode.

12. Seal energy leaks. Caulk over cracks and small holes around windows and exterior walls. Look carefully around plumbing pipes, telephone wires, dryer vents, sink and bathroom drains and under counter tops.

13. Participate in your power company’s special energy-saving program. Some programs shut down electric appliances for short bursts of time during peak hours. You hardly notice the difference at the time, but you will notice a difference when you get your bill.

14. Buy major appliances that sport the “Energy Star” sticker. That shows the appliance meets or exceeds standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency.

15. Consider a front-loading washing machine. They use 50 percent less energy and one-third less water. Plus, they remove far more water in the rinse cycle, and that translates into big savings in dryer time.

16. When building a home or replacing a roof, select a roof based more on energy efficiency than how it looks. Light-colored roofs, such a white, galvanixed metal or cement tile, do the best job of reflecting the sun, and cool quickly at night.

17. Landscaping with the right mix of trees and shrubs can lower your energy bills by blocking winter winds or the summer sun.